Draping
出版时间:
2013
ISBN:
9781780670935
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Draping is the art of using cotton muslin to create a fashion design directly on a mannequin. It is an essential skill for fashion designers. In this book, Karolyn Kiisel presents a series of step-by-step projects, creating real garments in classic styles, that are designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques.
Starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, the book advances through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills.
Each skill and technique throughout the book is explained through specially commissioned step-bystep photographs and line drawings that bring the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions to life Table of contents :
Content: Introduction : Draping is an art
Tools and preparation
Terminology --
Part 1. Beginning draping : Draping the woven panel : History
Exercises : Preparing the muslin
Draping the three grains
Visualizing muslin vs. fabrics
Dance tunic
Draping project : Diane of Versailles's garment --
Dresses : HIstory
Exercises : Dart variations
Classic bodice with bust dart
Bodice with French dart
Swing dress with no darts
Draping project : Audrey Hepburn's dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's
Variations : Setting the princess line
Joining two darts to create the princess line
Bodice with an armhole princess line --
Bustiers : History
Exercises : Preparing the form for draping the bustier
Preparing the fabric and materials for the bustier
Princess-line bustier
Bustier with Georgian shape
Draping project : Christian Lacroix bustier --
Part 2. Intermediate draping : Skirts : History
Exercises : Kilt
Skirt silhouettes
Straight skirt
A-line skirt
Bias circle skirt
Draping project : Bill Blass pegged skirt
Variations : Yoked skirt with gathers and flare --
Blouses : History
Exercises : Draping the blouse
Peasant blouse
Gibson Girl blouse
Easy sleeve draft
Draping project : Bill Blass organza ribbon blouse
Variations : Tunic with bell sleeve
Mandarin collar
Peter Pan collar
Blouse with peplum and classic bishop sleeve --
Pants : History
Exercises : Draping and fitting pants
Harem pant
Hakama
Wide-let trouser with front tucks
Easy pant draft
Draping project : Nanette Lepore cropped pant --
Knits : History
Exercises : Cotton knit top with rigged neckline
Strapless knit top
Draping project : Nanette Lepore halter-neck knit top
Variations : Top with kimono sleeves --
Part 3. Advanced draping : Coats and jackets : History
Exercises : Understanding shoulders
Chanel-style jacket
The two-piece sleeve
Easy two-piece sleeve draft
Variations : Raglan jacket
Trench coat
Swing coat with shawl collar
Coat with egg-shaped silhouette --
The grand gown : History
Exercises : Supporting the skirt
Corsets
Gown with ruffled petticoat
Draping project : Oscar de la Renta Gown
Variations : Royal wedding gown --
Draping on the bias : History
Exercises : Bias-draped camisole
Bias-chemise with princess line
Draping project : Jean Harlow's dress in Dinner at eight --
Improvisational draping : History
Exercises : Asymmetrical draped neckline
Draping project : Viviene Westwood dress --
Glossary.
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内容简介:
Draping is the art of using cotton muslin to create a fashion design directly on a mannequin. It is an essential skill for fashion designers. In this book, Karolyn Kiisel presents a series of step-by-step projects, creating real garments in classic styles, that are designed to develop skills from the most basic to more advanced techniques.
Starting with the basics of choosing and preparing the dress form for draping, the book advances through pinning, trimming, and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements such as shoulder pads, under layers, and petticoats, and how to handle bias draping. The book culminates with a chapter on improvisational skills.
Each skill and technique throughout the book is explained through specially commissioned step-bystep photographs and line drawings that bring the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions to life
-
目录:
Table of contents :
Content: Introduction : Draping is an art
Tools and preparation
Terminology --
Part 1. Beginning draping : Draping the woven panel : History
Exercises : Preparing the muslin
Draping the three grains
Visualizing muslin vs. fabrics
Dance tunic
Draping project : Diane of Versailles's garment --
Dresses : HIstory
Exercises : Dart variations
Classic bodice with bust dart
Bodice with French dart
Swing dress with no darts
Draping project : Audrey Hepburn's dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's
Variations : Setting the princess line
Joining two darts to create the princess line
Bodice with an armhole princess line --
Bustiers : History
Exercises : Preparing the form for draping the bustier
Preparing the fabric and materials for the bustier
Princess-line bustier
Bustier with Georgian shape
Draping project : Christian Lacroix bustier --
Part 2. Intermediate draping : Skirts : History
Exercises : Kilt
Skirt silhouettes
Straight skirt
A-line skirt
Bias circle skirt
Draping project : Bill Blass pegged skirt
Variations : Yoked skirt with gathers and flare --
Blouses : History
Exercises : Draping the blouse
Peasant blouse
Gibson Girl blouse
Easy sleeve draft
Draping project : Bill Blass organza ribbon blouse
Variations : Tunic with bell sleeve
Mandarin collar
Peter Pan collar
Blouse with peplum and classic bishop sleeve --
Pants : History
Exercises : Draping and fitting pants
Harem pant
Hakama
Wide-let trouser with front tucks
Easy pant draft
Draping project : Nanette Lepore cropped pant --
Knits : History
Exercises : Cotton knit top with rigged neckline
Strapless knit top
Draping project : Nanette Lepore halter-neck knit top
Variations : Top with kimono sleeves --
Part 3. Advanced draping : Coats and jackets : History
Exercises : Understanding shoulders
Chanel-style jacket
The two-piece sleeve
Easy two-piece sleeve draft
Variations : Raglan jacket
Trench coat
Swing coat with shawl collar
Coat with egg-shaped silhouette --
The grand gown : History
Exercises : Supporting the skirt
Corsets
Gown with ruffled petticoat
Draping project : Oscar de la Renta Gown
Variations : Royal wedding gown --
Draping on the bias : History
Exercises : Bias-draped camisole
Bias-chemise with princess line
Draping project : Jean Harlow's dress in Dinner at eight --
Improvisational draping : History
Exercises : Asymmetrical draped neckline
Draping project : Viviene Westwood dress --
Glossary.
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